Off to the Hidden Treasures: golf’s best-kept secrets
Nestled mysteriously between lore and tomorrow lies the linksland of North and West Ireland. Silently undiscovered, this part of the Emerald Isle makes for the perfect getaway if you’re looking for perhaps one of the finest experiences in golf anywhere in the world.
When you think of Ireland, and especially golf, you think mostly of sites in the Southwest to the East toward Dublin, like the K Club, Killarney, Old Head, Waterville and Royal Dublin. They are world-class sites, for sure, but very expensive and it’s hard to get a tee time. Much of that part of the Island has become that way, with the burgeoning Irish economy in and around the capital and spreading to the south to Cork and the Celtic Sea. Ireland has become the gem of Western industry, especially in the software and pharmaceutical realms. It has become crowded and bustling, the result of racing progress. It’s best to avoid if you’re trying to experience the way golf was intended to be played upon this ancient land.
There is a solution to the overgrowth of economic progress in the region, and that is to simply stay away from it. Portions of the island have been left alone and mostly ignored by American travelers because of the unrest in Northern Ireland, which has since been stifled, and the western portion that was, up until now, largely ignored for reasons unknown. There you will find the old beauty and charm of this country that still remains in the small towns and flows through the dunes as if they were magically poured in between.
It is true that within St. James Plantation there are 81 holes of championship golf and the self-proclaimed Mecca of golf, Myrtle Beach, is an easy drive away. Why would anyone want to travel great distances to play links-style golf? It is so easily accessible right here at home.
First, you must understand what a links course truly is, by definition. Many courses here in the States paint themselves as links but fall woefully short of the claim, which is painfully obvious the first time you actually play one.
Many links are located in coastal areas, on sandy soil amid dunes, with few water hazards and few trees, if any at all. This reflects both the nature of the scenery where the sport originated and the fact that only limited resources were available to golf course architects at the time. Any earth moving had to be done by hand, so it was kept to a minimum. It also didn’t upset the local shepherds too much.
The challenges of links golf fall into two categories—the nature of the courses themselves, which tend to be characterized by uneven fairways, thick rough and small, deep bunkers, and their coastal location, which is frequently windy and rainy. The weather is as unpredictable as to where your next shot may end up. As many links courses consist literally of an "outward" nine in one direction along the coast and an "inward" nine which returns in the opposite direction, players often have to cope with opposite wind patterns in each half of their round. That’s the fun part.
In other words, links golf is nothing like American golf. Nothing. That’s why anyone who calls him or herself a golfer needs to take a week or so and travel to experience the differences.
North and West Ireland is the perfect place.
Be warned that if you have a hard time walking 18 holes here at home, you won’t have much fun in Ireland. Thousands of years before the earth’s crust was wiped away by some mystical force of nature and golf courses appeared, goats and sheep were the main inhabitants, indicating there are hills and dales to be dealt with and mostly without carts or “buggies,” as they are called. If you’re looking for carts with GPS, a beer cart front and back, and all-you-can-eat crab leg restaurants, you may want to stay home. But if you want to find out just how good your game is on some of the purest, most diabolical risk-reward tracks on earth, and then you need to start getting into shape.
To further facilitate your comfort during the experience, make sure you invest in a light carry bag and a good rain suit. You’ll over-utilize both during your visit. And don’t forget to bring plenty of golf balls. No matter how good you think you are, you’ll need more.
There are 11 member clubs in the North and West Coast Links Golf Association and to rate, compare, or decide to play any one at the exclusion of another is impossible. There are similarities, for sure, as nature only has so many options at her disposal. But the subtleties of each course are infinite, like brush strokes of the masters. The differences can be slight but not to be missed, often being the trademark of each location.
Therein lies the dilemma. How do you approach this infinity in a finite time frame?
A suggestion would be to choose a number of courses that you can play twice during your stay with a day off in between. The reason being there is no way you can figure out any links course in just one trip around it. And, travel is still rather clumsy, even if you’re not driving. So, for instance, if you were going for eight days, pick two or three courses that are in close proximity to where you are staying. There aren’t any expressways, especially where these wonderful, hidden emerald necklaces are found.
Here are a few suggestions I had the pleasure of experiencing for a brief moment in time.
The Links
Enniscrone
Situated beside the picturesque seaside town of Enniscrone that is also the home of great beaches and some serious scuba diving, the golf course affords panoramic views of Killala Bay, Bartra Island and sandy beaches with the Nephin and the Ox Mountains forming the backdrop.
Founded in 1918, redesigned by the late Eddie Hackett in 1974 and by Donald Steel in 2001, this championship course is one of Ireland's finest links courses. Apart from the championship links known as The Dunes, there is also the nine-hole Scurmore course.
There are holes on this course where you will think it’s just you, the golf course and the heavens. The dunes here are so tall, it would take all the material Pete Dye, the Fazios and Trent Jones, Jr. and Sr. put together couldn’t recreate.
Carne
Carne Golf Links also curves through magnificent, unspoiled sand dunes overlooking Blacksod Bay and the wild side of the Atlantic Ocean near Belmullet County Mayo in the West of Ireland. Carne was the last links course to be designed by Eddie Hackett, and it is now believed by many who have played it to be his greatest challenge to the rest of us.
The building of Carne has caused little disturbance to this untamed and ancient landscape. Tees and greens occurred naturally and very little earth moving was involved in the course construction. There are some breathtaking views over the Atlantic and the legendary islands of Inis Glóire and Inis Géidhe. This is one you will want to play twice, at least. If not for the golf, come for the camaraderie of the clubhouse. The locals here, like many others, love golf and they love their club and aren’t afraid to tell you about it, especially if you are a visitor.
County Sligo Golf Club
County Sligo Golf Club is situated at Rosses Point, a seaside village eight kilometers northwest of the town of Sligo, and is one of the oldest and best known links courses in Ireland. It was founded in 1894 on land leased from Henry Middleton, an uncle of the famous poet and Nobel Prize winner for literature W.B Yeats and his brother, noted landscape painter Jack B. Yeats. The links are set out on the Atlantic Ocean on the west; Benbulben dominates the view on the northern skyline and bears a striking resemblance to Cape Town's Table Mountain. To the east, Glencar valley and the Dartary mountains with Lugnagall and Truskmore, while the southern vista is completed by Knocknarea topped by a large Cairn of stones reputed to be the grave of the 'Warrior Queen Meave of Connaught'.
What all that means is this course had some of the most breathtaking scenery you can imagine.
Connemara
Connemara, or Ballyconneely Golf Club as it is also known, is located between the Twelve Bens Mountains and the Atlantic Ocean, in one of the most splendid settings imaginable that is about a 15-minute drive from Clifden.
Originally opened as an 18-hole venue, Connemara Golf Links has offered 27 holes of sublime links golf since 2001. The course was designed by renowned Irish course architect Eddie Hackett and completed by Tom Craddock. While Connemara Golf Club may be located on one of Ireland most westerly tips, make no mistake that it is worth the trip. Like the many other great links of the west and northwest, Connemara remains a largely underplayed gem but its quality is not for debate.
This was the first links course I’ve ever played, and it took it easy on me for the front nine. On the back nine, I swore I saw an Irish Hare, which is a huge rabbit, wearing a saddle. Hemlock grows wild there, too. Be careful.
Donegal Golf Club
The Donegal Golf Club was founded in 1959 and was erected in the edge of the town at Tullycullion. It stayed there for 14 years until it moved to the Murvagh Peninsula where it is situated today. It has been the venue of prestigious championships such as the 1979 Irish Ladies Close Championship and the 2003 Men’s Irish Close Championship, a testament to its great design and world-class amenities and facilities.
This 18-hole championship course plays to a par 73 and is measured at 7,280 yards. The course is an expansive links, is wide open and mostly made up of low dunes. The play is hard and fast on this course, but the scenic ambience forces a player to stop for a while and just soak in the view. The Atlantic Ocean displays a backdrop of stunning scenery as well as the mountains that stand in ancient testimony in the other direction. Donegal is one of Darren Clarke’s favorite stomping grounds when he is not playing the European or PGA Tours.
Accommodations
Foyle’s Hotel
Connemara's longest-established hotel, situated in the picturesque town of Clifden, has been owned and managed by the Foyle family for nearly a century. This impressive building, which has played host to many famous personalities over the years, has recently been redesigned to the highest modern standards, yet retains much of its old charm and atmosphere.
Inside the hotel is the Marconi Restaurant, a wonderful place specializing in local seafood. A major part of the Foyle’s Hotel's reputation is based on the excellence of its cuisine, something you may not have considered when traveling to Ireland. Mouthwatering beef, world-renowned Irish salmon, sea trout and seafood, tender Connemara lamb and fresh vegetables are prepared with meticulous care by internationally experienced chefs. The menus are vast and imaginative, including interesting vegetarian dishes, and all are accompanied by an extensive wine list. Don’t pass up the mussels in coconut milk and chili sauce. It’s worth the price of admission itself.
Harvey’s Point
The ultimate in splendor and luxury, set in a magical location amidst the natural beauty of the Bluestack Mountains and on the edge of the shimmering Lough Eske, Harvey’s Point is an island of serenity and truly an unforgettable experience.
The lavish and plush guest rooms are indescribable and are the most luxurious in all of Ireland. These, along with corridors adorned with lowly lit chandeliers, are downright hedonistic and truly fit for a King. If you’re looking for the finest accommodation in the west of Ireland, look no further. From double vanity units and whirlpools in the bathroom to separate lounge areas and private bar, it’s a haven of complete luxury. You may not want to play golf.
Mount Falcon Country House
The Mount Falcon Country House Hotel and Estate is another four-star hotel located on the west bank of the River Moy on 100 acres of magical woodlands, between Foxford and Ballina, in North County Mayo. Mount Falcon's new owners, amongst them the Maloney Family who hail from the area, visited the Estate and fell in love with it. They invested heavily in a refurbishment and development program and at every stage have ensured that the integrity and charm of the Estate has been completely retained.
The Kitchen Restaurant, as its name suggests, is located in the area of the original kitchen. Following the tradition of the world-renowned Mount Falcon Fishing & Country Estate run by the legendary Connie Aldridge, you will be offered a menu featuring the very best in quality, with fresh, local organic produce and seafood. The old days of Irish cuisine of mostly boiled meat and potatoes is long gone. This is Irish gourmet, and it is a wonderful treat for any palate.
On your well-deserved day off between the punishments known as links golf, don’t forget there are other things Ireland boasts, like their textile shops and loud and friendly pubs in each of the small towns scattered throughout your journey. It’s all part of the trip, and ones not to be ignored while on your envisioned journey to Ireland’s linksland of the North and West.
When you think of Ireland, and especially golf, you think mostly of sites in the Southwest to the East toward Dublin, like the K Club, Killarney, Old Head, Waterville and Royal Dublin. They are world-class sites, for sure, but very expensive and it’s hard to get a tee time. Much of that part of the Island has become that way, with the burgeoning Irish economy in and around the capital and spreading to the south to Cork and the Celtic Sea. Ireland has become the gem of Western industry, especially in the software and pharmaceutical realms. It has become crowded and bustling, the result of racing progress. It’s best to avoid if you’re trying to experience the way golf was intended to be played upon this ancient land.
There is a solution to the overgrowth of economic progress in the region, and that is to simply stay away from it. Portions of the island have been left alone and mostly ignored by American travelers because of the unrest in Northern Ireland, which has since been stifled, and the western portion that was, up until now, largely ignored for reasons unknown. There you will find the old beauty and charm of this country that still remains in the small towns and flows through the dunes as if they were magically poured in between.
It is true that within St. James Plantation there are 81 holes of championship golf and the self-proclaimed Mecca of golf, Myrtle Beach, is an easy drive away. Why would anyone want to travel great distances to play links-style golf? It is so easily accessible right here at home.
First, you must understand what a links course truly is, by definition. Many courses here in the States paint themselves as links but fall woefully short of the claim, which is painfully obvious the first time you actually play one.
Many links are located in coastal areas, on sandy soil amid dunes, with few water hazards and few trees, if any at all. This reflects both the nature of the scenery where the sport originated and the fact that only limited resources were available to golf course architects at the time. Any earth moving had to be done by hand, so it was kept to a minimum. It also didn’t upset the local shepherds too much.
The challenges of links golf fall into two categories—the nature of the courses themselves, which tend to be characterized by uneven fairways, thick rough and small, deep bunkers, and their coastal location, which is frequently windy and rainy. The weather is as unpredictable as to where your next shot may end up. As many links courses consist literally of an "outward" nine in one direction along the coast and an "inward" nine which returns in the opposite direction, players often have to cope with opposite wind patterns in each half of their round. That’s the fun part.
In other words, links golf is nothing like American golf. Nothing. That’s why anyone who calls him or herself a golfer needs to take a week or so and travel to experience the differences.
North and West Ireland is the perfect place.
Be warned that if you have a hard time walking 18 holes here at home, you won’t have much fun in Ireland. Thousands of years before the earth’s crust was wiped away by some mystical force of nature and golf courses appeared, goats and sheep were the main inhabitants, indicating there are hills and dales to be dealt with and mostly without carts or “buggies,” as they are called. If you’re looking for carts with GPS, a beer cart front and back, and all-you-can-eat crab leg restaurants, you may want to stay home. But if you want to find out just how good your game is on some of the purest, most diabolical risk-reward tracks on earth, and then you need to start getting into shape.
To further facilitate your comfort during the experience, make sure you invest in a light carry bag and a good rain suit. You’ll over-utilize both during your visit. And don’t forget to bring plenty of golf balls. No matter how good you think you are, you’ll need more.
There are 11 member clubs in the North and West Coast Links Golf Association and to rate, compare, or decide to play any one at the exclusion of another is impossible. There are similarities, for sure, as nature only has so many options at her disposal. But the subtleties of each course are infinite, like brush strokes of the masters. The differences can be slight but not to be missed, often being the trademark of each location.
Therein lies the dilemma. How do you approach this infinity in a finite time frame?
A suggestion would be to choose a number of courses that you can play twice during your stay with a day off in between. The reason being there is no way you can figure out any links course in just one trip around it. And, travel is still rather clumsy, even if you’re not driving. So, for instance, if you were going for eight days, pick two or three courses that are in close proximity to where you are staying. There aren’t any expressways, especially where these wonderful, hidden emerald necklaces are found.
Here are a few suggestions I had the pleasure of experiencing for a brief moment in time.
The Links
Enniscrone
Situated beside the picturesque seaside town of Enniscrone that is also the home of great beaches and some serious scuba diving, the golf course affords panoramic views of Killala Bay, Bartra Island and sandy beaches with the Nephin and the Ox Mountains forming the backdrop.
Founded in 1918, redesigned by the late Eddie Hackett in 1974 and by Donald Steel in 2001, this championship course is one of Ireland's finest links courses. Apart from the championship links known as The Dunes, there is also the nine-hole Scurmore course.
There are holes on this course where you will think it’s just you, the golf course and the heavens. The dunes here are so tall, it would take all the material Pete Dye, the Fazios and Trent Jones, Jr. and Sr. put together couldn’t recreate.
Carne
Carne Golf Links also curves through magnificent, unspoiled sand dunes overlooking Blacksod Bay and the wild side of the Atlantic Ocean near Belmullet County Mayo in the West of Ireland. Carne was the last links course to be designed by Eddie Hackett, and it is now believed by many who have played it to be his greatest challenge to the rest of us.
The building of Carne has caused little disturbance to this untamed and ancient landscape. Tees and greens occurred naturally and very little earth moving was involved in the course construction. There are some breathtaking views over the Atlantic and the legendary islands of Inis Glóire and Inis Géidhe. This is one you will want to play twice, at least. If not for the golf, come for the camaraderie of the clubhouse. The locals here, like many others, love golf and they love their club and aren’t afraid to tell you about it, especially if you are a visitor.
County Sligo Golf Club
County Sligo Golf Club is situated at Rosses Point, a seaside village eight kilometers northwest of the town of Sligo, and is one of the oldest and best known links courses in Ireland. It was founded in 1894 on land leased from Henry Middleton, an uncle of the famous poet and Nobel Prize winner for literature W.B Yeats and his brother, noted landscape painter Jack B. Yeats. The links are set out on the Atlantic Ocean on the west; Benbulben dominates the view on the northern skyline and bears a striking resemblance to Cape Town's Table Mountain. To the east, Glencar valley and the Dartary mountains with Lugnagall and Truskmore, while the southern vista is completed by Knocknarea topped by a large Cairn of stones reputed to be the grave of the 'Warrior Queen Meave of Connaught'.
What all that means is this course had some of the most breathtaking scenery you can imagine.
Connemara
Connemara, or Ballyconneely Golf Club as it is also known, is located between the Twelve Bens Mountains and the Atlantic Ocean, in one of the most splendid settings imaginable that is about a 15-minute drive from Clifden.
Originally opened as an 18-hole venue, Connemara Golf Links has offered 27 holes of sublime links golf since 2001. The course was designed by renowned Irish course architect Eddie Hackett and completed by Tom Craddock. While Connemara Golf Club may be located on one of Ireland most westerly tips, make no mistake that it is worth the trip. Like the many other great links of the west and northwest, Connemara remains a largely underplayed gem but its quality is not for debate.
This was the first links course I’ve ever played, and it took it easy on me for the front nine. On the back nine, I swore I saw an Irish Hare, which is a huge rabbit, wearing a saddle. Hemlock grows wild there, too. Be careful.
Donegal Golf Club
The Donegal Golf Club was founded in 1959 and was erected in the edge of the town at Tullycullion. It stayed there for 14 years until it moved to the Murvagh Peninsula where it is situated today. It has been the venue of prestigious championships such as the 1979 Irish Ladies Close Championship and the 2003 Men’s Irish Close Championship, a testament to its great design and world-class amenities and facilities.
This 18-hole championship course plays to a par 73 and is measured at 7,280 yards. The course is an expansive links, is wide open and mostly made up of low dunes. The play is hard and fast on this course, but the scenic ambience forces a player to stop for a while and just soak in the view. The Atlantic Ocean displays a backdrop of stunning scenery as well as the mountains that stand in ancient testimony in the other direction. Donegal is one of Darren Clarke’s favorite stomping grounds when he is not playing the European or PGA Tours.
Accommodations
Foyle’s Hotel
Connemara's longest-established hotel, situated in the picturesque town of Clifden, has been owned and managed by the Foyle family for nearly a century. This impressive building, which has played host to many famous personalities over the years, has recently been redesigned to the highest modern standards, yet retains much of its old charm and atmosphere.
Inside the hotel is the Marconi Restaurant, a wonderful place specializing in local seafood. A major part of the Foyle’s Hotel's reputation is based on the excellence of its cuisine, something you may not have considered when traveling to Ireland. Mouthwatering beef, world-renowned Irish salmon, sea trout and seafood, tender Connemara lamb and fresh vegetables are prepared with meticulous care by internationally experienced chefs. The menus are vast and imaginative, including interesting vegetarian dishes, and all are accompanied by an extensive wine list. Don’t pass up the mussels in coconut milk and chili sauce. It’s worth the price of admission itself.
Harvey’s Point
The ultimate in splendor and luxury, set in a magical location amidst the natural beauty of the Bluestack Mountains and on the edge of the shimmering Lough Eske, Harvey’s Point is an island of serenity and truly an unforgettable experience.
The lavish and plush guest rooms are indescribable and are the most luxurious in all of Ireland. These, along with corridors adorned with lowly lit chandeliers, are downright hedonistic and truly fit for a King. If you’re looking for the finest accommodation in the west of Ireland, look no further. From double vanity units and whirlpools in the bathroom to separate lounge areas and private bar, it’s a haven of complete luxury. You may not want to play golf.
Mount Falcon Country House
The Mount Falcon Country House Hotel and Estate is another four-star hotel located on the west bank of the River Moy on 100 acres of magical woodlands, between Foxford and Ballina, in North County Mayo. Mount Falcon's new owners, amongst them the Maloney Family who hail from the area, visited the Estate and fell in love with it. They invested heavily in a refurbishment and development program and at every stage have ensured that the integrity and charm of the Estate has been completely retained.
The Kitchen Restaurant, as its name suggests, is located in the area of the original kitchen. Following the tradition of the world-renowned Mount Falcon Fishing & Country Estate run by the legendary Connie Aldridge, you will be offered a menu featuring the very best in quality, with fresh, local organic produce and seafood. The old days of Irish cuisine of mostly boiled meat and potatoes is long gone. This is Irish gourmet, and it is a wonderful treat for any palate.
On your well-deserved day off between the punishments known as links golf, don’t forget there are other things Ireland boasts, like their textile shops and loud and friendly pubs in each of the small towns scattered throughout your journey. It’s all part of the trip, and ones not to be ignored while on your envisioned journey to Ireland’s linksland of the North and West.
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